Otp’s Guide to Street Art: Argentina
Photo by: bellearielparis
Argentina is a politically-charged, street art expert. The country’s dark history, from genocide to dictatorship, has stimulated one of the most prolific street art scenes in the world. Nothing expresses outrage over social injustices or disenchantment with a flawed government louder than a massive mural painted on a ten-story public building. OTP guides you through Argentina’s self-portrait; the street art that tells the tale of a nation in repair.
Photo by: Five Prime
Although street art has been around since the 60s, the formerly taboo art form didn’t flourish in Argentina until the mid-70s when the Dirty War began. This seven-year era of state-sponsored terrorism, led by the military dictatorships of Jorge Videla and his successors, resulted in the torture, disappearances and murder of over 10,000 people (usually left-wing activists, including journalists, students and trade unionizers). The horrific events of the Dirty War empowered Argentinians to voice their pain and anger, in full color, all over public property.
Living under a dictatorship isn’t fun. Being scared to walk the streets isn’t even the half of it – think about being afraid to even open your mouth for fear of arrest, torture or even death. Well, these fearless folk risked it all to paint messages of anguish and hope, throwing up big ol’ “f**k you, military regime” pieces on public infrastructures, like buildings, bridges and benches. Suddenly, the oppressed had a voice – and (more importantly) an audience.
Street art surged in 2001 as tragedy struck again – this time, a major economic collapse (think Great Depression and then some). In one night, millions of Argentinians went from loaded to broke; losing every last possession along with their jobs and homes. Penniless artists scrounged for materials and painted brilliant displays over the urban landscape, expressing frustration and sorrow. Jobless and desperate, anyone with the tiniest artistic talent turned to the streets to peddle their wares.
With the bad guys gone and a little more cash in the bank, Argentina’s street art has evolved into a true art form, so revered that even law enforcement officials don’t intervene.
Eight sassy artists and photographers that use everyday materials to commemorate victims while shaming former members of the military regime. They haven’t forgotten the nation’s atrocities and are known for once altering every subway ticket to display the name and photo of an ex-torturer who was once the head of subway security. Using statues and plaques, they marked spots along the road where 29 demonstrators were killed, figuratively sucker-punching Videla and his torture-happy cronies in the face with their unconventional artwork.
RUNDONTWALK; A street art crew who has left their mark with giant stencils of pigs, pandas and gorillas in Palermo. With works featured in the Buenos Aires Calling!,a recent street art exhibit in London, RUNDONTWALK’s pieces spill over from Buenos Aires to Brazil and beyond.
Photo by: limarlabien
Pum Pum : A female artist who proves street art is not just for the fellas, does badass latex paint renderings of cats, bunnies and babies scattered throughout the city. While she sees the value of sending political messages through street art, her approach is more about the strictly visual, stating that “expecting every single drawing to send out a message is whack.” Her beautiful “aesthetic contributions” have also been featured in expos, more traditional galleries and boutiques.
Vomito Attack’s controversial works win the prize for tongue-in-cheek snarkiness, made with newspaper clippings and stencils that blast government corruption. Drawing inspiration from international artists like Banksy and Andrew Serrano, let them sneak attack you visually in San Telmo.
Doma: A popular group started back in 1998 that still spices up the streets of Buenos Aires with urban installations, street projections and animated shorts. This multi-media crew is delightfully gruesome and hold organized art shows all over the world.
While you can find artistic expressions on walls all over the country, Buenos Aires is the street art heavy -hitter with the neighborhoods of Palermo, San Telmo, Recoleta, and La Boca dominating the scene.
Palermo: The best spot to not only see great art but meet the artists (and if you counted your penny pesos, buy some art) is undoubtedly the Post Street Bar. Outside, inside and all over, their walls are covered with works from the most-famed Argentinian artists, who often hang out for meet and greets.
San Telmo: A traditional cross-section of Buenos Aires, complete with cobblestones and tourist-oriented shops, this neighborhood’s real flavor comes from the abundance of art splashed on its street walls. The cool kids live here and don’t hesitate to decorate their neighborhood accordingly.
Photo by: Zade 1
Recoleta: This ‘hood is as ritzy as they come, with pricey restaurants, shopping centers and museums we’re only half able to afford. While the elegance of this district lends itself to more traditional art, it still kicks ass on the street front. Check out the outer facade of the Centro Cultural and roam around the Recoleta Cemetery for some spray-and-flee stencils.
La Boca: The proud home of football club giants, Boca Juniors, the streets of La Boca are often sprayed with tributes to the sport, with political imagery (like the mothers at Plaza de Mayo) sharing the street stage. All kinds of color can be found on the Caminito, a little street that acts as La Boca’s artsy artery along with RUNDONTWALK pieces in Barrio Chino.
If thumbing through streets solo gets lonely, several organizations in Buenos Aires recently began to offer street art tours. Through Graffitimundo, you get a dose of history with your hit of visual stimulation as you comb the streets for the best art around. Drop the 90 pesos (about $22 bucks) for the 3 hour tour; it’ll open your eyes to some world-class vandalism.
Street art in Argentina has come a long way since the days of authoritarian governments and massacres. While still a powerful means of self-expression for the impoverished, victimized and marginalized, it’s more than just artistic protest. It’s therapy; a stab at artistic immortality.
A sassy, spunky, and spontaneous globetrottress taking the world, one passport stamp at a time.
Tweet This
Share on Facebook
Digg This
Save to delicious
Stumble it
RSS Feed
You guys need to do a street art edition for Valparaiso, the street art there is amazing.
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1802433775416&set=a.1802370853843.2100317.1076989725&theater
Our daughter just came back from Argentina. Needless to say we are jealous and want to go. Thanks for the ideas for when we do.
-David