OTP’s Guide to the Nicaraguan Rodeo

Adventure, Extreme + Sports, Central America, Daily Blend, Featured, Lifestyles, Culture & Inspiration | Alex | October 25, 2011 at 8:44 am

Photo by: Phil Langer

Fueled by tradition, terror, and a few hundred cases of Toña cerevezas, the Nicaraguan Rodeo is one of the best ways to remind you that bulls are hard to ride. Especially if you are too drunk to stand.

Since 95% of the Nicaraguan population is comprised of practicing Catholics, most festivities are somehow linked to religion. It doesn’t matter if you’re celebrating a questionable virgin, a baby born in a barn, or some dude that knocked off a few heads in the name of the Lord– all are rodeo-worthy events. Nicaraguan celebrations aren’t your Nana’s church basement bingo social with a punchbowl full of actual punch—they’re week-long cultural ragers featuring elaborate dance, costume, food, parades, cockfights, and inebriated men trying to stay on a bull while spectators cheer.

Photo by: Gobierno Municipal de Piñas

Many Nicaraguan rodeos are part of a larger celebration known as Fiesta Patronales– a time when each town parish honors its patron saint by throwing a party. These parties can last anywhere from one day to a week; although Nicaraguan’s generally keep the party going for as many days as possible, or until the Toña runs dry. The Rodeos during these festivals are a bit more professional (maybe they have a fence around the arena, or a Toña banner hanging above the stands) and animal participants are treated with a bit more TLC (less taser gun?). Outside of religious revelry, smaller, home-grown rodeos pop up bi-weekly in many towns just for the hell of it, giving cowboys a chance to test their luck (and sobriety) against a raging bull.

Photo by: bg_os

San Juan Del Sur is a Pacific coastal town near Rivas and a favorite destination for vacationing Nicaraguans, expats, surfer dudes, backpackers and poser, reality television stars being strategically “extreme” in front of a camera on Survivor: Nicaragua. In the mid 1800’s, San Juan Del Sur was a rest stop for gold-miners en route to California; now it’s a top spot on the coast, full of hostels, pizza shops and Europeans. Since you won’t be the only loco gringo in the mix, San Juan Del Sur is the money place to lube up and pop the ole’ rodeo cherry. The Fiesta Patronales celebration in San Juan Del Sur honors the patron saint, John, with not one, but three rodeos, in addition to fireworks, horse parades, dances (bailes) and a “Miss San Juan Del Sur” beauty pageant. Snag a beauty queen, a deep fried churro and bust out your salsa moves on the dance floor at an after party. If, after the party you’re looking for a hostel lobby, Casa Oro’s got you covered.

Photo by: katecoats!

For a quaint little rodeo on the largest volcanic island on the planet, Ometepe’s your place. Located in the middle of Lake Nicaragua and sandwiched between two volcanoes, hop a ferry to Ometepe and head to a more authentic, and less inhabited, part of Nicaragua. During the patron saint festival, the town of Altagracia hosts the “taunting of the bulls,” Ometepe’s version of Pampolona’s Los Sanfermines. After a full day of soaking up Altagracia’s Patronales festivities, you may need a nearby place to crash and Hotel Central is right in the center of town. Rodeos are also held every Sunday on the island and are good chances to see some man-on-bull action with less crowds.

Photo by: ipaco8

So, the people of Juigalpa, a town in central Nicaragua, have a saying that “it’s not a good patron saint festival if nobody dies.” Each year, at the Assumption of the Virgin Mary celebration in August, an average of five people are killed while trying to ride the horned beast. Should you decide, like thousands of other Central Americans do, to make the trek to Juigalpa and get up in the action, the Hospedaje Nuevo Milenio is a good place to rest your head and celebrate the good fortune of living to tell the tale.

True, they are a cultural spectacle to behold, but don’t kid yourself that Nicaraguan rodeos would be endorsed by P.E.T.A. Even the slimiest lawyer wouldn’t be able to win a case against animal cruelty since the bulls, horses, or other animals involved, are provoked by being kicked, or tased with a taser gun to spring them into action. The one saving grace is that no animals are killed, like in Spanish bullfighting. On the contrary, the rodeo animals are prized and more likely to be fed and cared for (on off days) than farm animals in poverty-stricken areas.

Look, we’re all about adventure and thrill here at OTP, but if you decide to get into the ring, make sure you’re not shit-faced. Or, avoid the bull and instead fill a flask with Flor de Cana, learn how to trill your “r’s” and start shouting “Arriba! Arriba!” from the stands. Tell us your rodeo story and we’ll get you a card that reads: Lone Gringo Cowboy.