Top 10 Things to Do in Cordoba on a Backpacker’s Budget

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Sandwiched between popular destinations like Granada, Sevilla, and the Costa del Sol, it’s easy to forget little ol’ Córdoba. Most people only know the legendary Mezquita, but Cordoba’s history, food and women will make you wonder why it never made your backpacking map. OTP shows you how to spend several days, (but very few Euros), exploring this somewhat secret city.

“Mezquita” means mosque and while it is a humungous place, decked out with ancient arches and artifacts, an odd, kind of hideous, gold plated, full-on Catholic cathedral is mashed right in the middle of this Muslim place of worship. This nutty cohabitation of religions remains from the 13^th century when Catholic conquerors were on a rampage to rid Spain of everything Muslim but decided to spare the Mezquita for its beauty. This colossal structure is Cordoba’s main draw. To outsmart the tourists, use your snoring hostel roommate as an alarm clock and creep out early. Entrance is free before 10 am; otherwise it’s 8 euros.

Hands down, Córdobesa women are the hottest in Spain.  This dates back to the city’s origins as a Muslim Caliphate, when North African Moorish blood mixed with natives for exoticness maximus. Centuries later, these ladies still have “The Look” that continues to drive foreigners wild. Take in the ‘scenery’ at Plaza de la Corredera, a former bullfight venue now popular with locals for afternoons of cubatas (mixed drinks) or coffee. Mix in some of your own blood at El Sótano, a tapas bar with lots of little tables outside, strategically located for maximum people-scoping potential.

Take notes and snap pictures before copying Cordoba’s unique styles at Spain’s major clothing chains, located in the center around Plaza de las Tendillas. You like sales? Cordoba goes “rebajas” crazy in January and July, pushing new threads for up to 70% off normal prices. Stores like Blanco, Bershka, and Zara carry bold, colorful pieces essential to Spanish style with well-priced options for both sexy sexes. Alternatively, hit up the Mercadillo (weekly Sunday market), next to the futbol stadium, and haggle your way to a new look.

Next to France, Spain takes the cake for being snooty about their unique culinary traditions. When it comes to food, Córdobeses are downright pompous (and they price the pomp accordingly). Beat the full-priced system by going bite-sized. Try salmorejo (a thicker, garlicky version of gazpacho), flamenquín (ham wrapped in pork, deep-fried) and legendary rabo de toro (bull’s, or ox-tail) at Bar Moriles, who will serve you up tapas portions of all these delicacies for just 6 euros – beer included.

Only 20 minutes by bus outside the city, this archeological treasure is way underrated in a region filled with ancient castles. Medina Azahara was Cordoba’s capital back in its heyday as one of Europe’s largest and most influential cities. Now in ruins, surrounded by fields of bulls, archeology’s Humpty Dumpty has been in continuous excavation since 1911. It’s only 6 euros for a round-trip bus ride and if you can pretend to be an EU member by mustering up a good “cheerio” British accent, admission is free.

Back in the day, while uptight Catholics were busy preaching in the north, Andalucia was perfecting the craft of partying down south. As a student city, Córdoba has bars and clubs for every taste and budget. For bumping beats and Vogue-esque revelers, start at El Vial and finish at Góngora. For grungier, student-oriented venues, try the Ciudad Jardín neighborhood and end up at Underground or Long Rock in the center. If nothing seems to rub you right, Botellons are sure to hit the spot. Most nights, people gather in various parks around the city to share their bottles of booze in public. Crashing one is easy as long as you contribute a little something. Pick up a euro’s worth box of wine at SuperSol and bond with locals until it hurts.

People as old as 30 live at home and spend weekends with their mommies. As such, Thursday is the most happening night of the week

Sure supermarket booze is cheap (money, not morning after pain, wise), but ditch the San Miguel for once and sample local liquid courage, the Mezquita. This local vino is less wine,more sherry and made with love by the Moriles and Montilla bodegas. It may be owned by Alhambra Factories, but the flavor and tradition is all Córdoba ( the 7.2% alc. vol. doesn’t hurt either). If you happen to be in Córdoba in springtime, cool off with rebujito: equal parts Seven-Up and Spanish vino. Rambunctious refreshment at its best.

La Judería, the historical quarter of Córdoba, is better without a map. Leave your guide behind and ramble the single-file-line alleyways, stumbling on University of Córdoba buildings, the famous old Synagogue and Sephardi Jewish Museum. Don’t miss the Callejón de las Flores, the most photographed street in Córdoba, before resurfacing near the ancient, but still intact, city walls. If you end up circling around aimlessly (like a man with one long leg), take a pit stop at the Media Luna tearoom to get a grip and plan out how to get more efficiently lost next time.

Come to Cordoba the last week of May, arming yourself with sunscreen, water, a camera and a huge appetite for debauchery to prepare for La Fería de Nuestra Señora de la Salud, an annual fair that spits in the face of tame fun. Spaniards might be more partial to the Fería de Sevilla, but Sevillanos have nothing on the Córdobes. Free live music, rides, food and fireworks draw even the most skeptical partiers. Flamenco ladies of all ages party alongside little abuelos until 6am, while their grandkids sleep in strollers next to booming speakers, as teens puke in the Guadalquivir River and twenty-somethings mash faces in public without coming up for air. Only the strong survive.

Sick of puking in the river? Take a break in the gardens of Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos, the ancient palace where Columbus allegedly asked the Spanish kings for dinero to get him to America. Try channeling old Christy’s luck and call moms and pops collect about that Western Union transfer. When they cut you off for good, explore plants, fountains, enemy-spotting towers or chill out in Tendillas or Jardines de Juan Carlos I, all for the price of nothing.

Notorious for being hard to follow, the people of Cordoba slur, lisp and swallow the “s” off every word. But you don’t need to understand them to know they’re all about having a good time. Forget your textbook Spanish and dive down south to pick up some Andalucian adventure.

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